(read the post before this one first)
[continued]
The waves were huge!
Thousands of people hundreds of photographers News crews and probably 200
surfers were at Swamis in Cardiff, CA last Wednesday if you hadn’t heard-
It was crazy, being a surfer myself, it was a rush just watching from the
bluff. When I first got there it looked big, 12 foot sets were rolling in
and I thought about cruising out because I had been surfing before when
it was 12 to 15 feet one time before under more reasonable conditions with
a channel and warmer water. Then I saw a 20 foot set come through and that
sealed the deal- there was no way I was going out- as fun as it was and as
crazy as I may have thought I was, I thought to myself-you could seriously
die out there! I watched from the bluff as life guard jet skis towed out
surfers who were getting pounded by the big waves- it was an amazing day
to watch and it felt like a big day in Hawaii!!!
A number of surfers caught the waves of there life that day I’m sure-
Crazy enough, my brother Jaime Chambers reporter and Surf reporter on the KTLA News felt the pressure to uphold his surf reporter rep and paddled out up north
where it was at least 12 to 15 feet! his camera crew was there and he dropped
in on a couple of huge waves that they got on tape! (I’ll try and put a video
clip up of the footage soon) He got two huge waves and on his 3rd wave he
banged himself up and has a cut and bruise on his nose- he was alright and
did a cool surf report right after talking about the waves-
They aired his waves on KTLA later that night!
(continued scroll up!)